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iTEXTILIS  
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SHARING OBSERVATIONS
To understand Planet Earth


The iTEXTILIS is a division of The IK Workshop Society – a global and unique forum for all those interested in Natural & Cultural History from a Textile Perspective.

Here we are aiming to show the many fascinating perspectives of Textile History in regularly published essays. This is a place where practical and theoretical knowledge go hand in hand - with texts focusing on handicraft, manufacturing, natural dyeing, trade, fashion and material culture. These studies are based on a wide range of sources as archival documents, physical objects, travel journals and artworks primarily dating from the early modern period and up to the late 19th century. iTEXTILIS also gives information about previous and ongoing:
  • Field work, Expeditions
  • Research projects
  • Publicise, Publishing, Exhibitions
  • Philanthropy
Hemp "time ball" (replica made by Vivian
“Stu yat” Harrison 2003, Washington
National Museum of the American Indian).
Photo: The IK Foundation, London. Hemp "time ball" (replica made by Vivian “Stu yat” Harrison 2003, Washington National Museum of the American Indian). Photo: The IK Foundation, London.
Textile History is such a wide ranging interdisciplinary subject – which gives the possibility to inspire from a theoretical as well as practical viewpoint. Experiments and reproductions are an important part of the research – in the areas of weaving, dyeing, needlework, knitting, plaiting and lace – so in the best possible way be able to develop new knowledge related to the history of textiles and understanding of peoples’ former daily lives.

Our motto is .
LATEST THE TEXTILIS ESSAYS | By Viveka Hansen
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TWO TAPESTRY PANELS – WOVEN BY MORRIS & COMPANY AROUND YEAR 1900

Robert Elliott Pannett (1834-1920) was a Whitby solicitor who held various positions in local government during his professional life. He was also for many years deeply engaged with the Whitby Literary & Philosophical Society of which he became a member in 1861 before serving on the Committee from 1862 to 1920. As a collector of fine arts he purchased the woven tapestries Flora and Pomona from Morris & Company in Oxford Street, London...

May 22, 2018
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NATURAL DYES, ICELANDIC WOOL AND FLAXSEED – TRADE IN 1842

This essay will give a glimpse of goods in stock from a mid-19th century shop in southernmost Sweden. The firm Luttropp & Andersson in Malmö sold the most varied items to their customers – such as nails, Norwegian herring, champagne, sugar, coffee, spare parts to ploughs, buttons, yarn, flaxseed, dyes and wool...

May 2, 2018
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WORKING DRESS, FASHION AND TEXTILE RAW MATERIALS IN 18TH CENTURY GARDENS

The history of gardens has quite often crossed my path during textile research. It may have been via etchings of wealthy visitors dressed in the latest fashion or gardeners in working dress, positioned in close surroundings of a manor house. Other evidence of pure economic or domestic use have been traced from contemporary written sources, for example in travel journals describing dye plants and mulberry trees in experimental plantations or botanical gardens. This essay...

April 11, 2018
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TEXTILE MANUFACTURING IN BRITAIN 1700 TO 1850 – A CASE STUDY

The pre-industrialisation in urban, rural and domestic areas may be seen from perspectives of textile manufacturers as well as the many spinners, weavers and connected occupations in workplaces at home and in factories. The rising consumptions and standard of living for “the middling sort” in the 18th century – were two of several factors that appears to have contributed to the increasing speed of the Industrial Revolution...

March 25, 2018
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CARL LINNAEUS’ TEXTILE OBSERVATIONS IN MALMÖ 1749

The tour of Skåne (Skånska resan), lasting April to August in 1749 was to be the final provincial tour of the Swedish naturalist Carl Linnaeus. He continued to pay attention to dye-plants and even speculated on new species that had been less tested, but may be useful for durable colours on yarn and cloth. Just as on his tour of Västergötland three years earlier, Linnaeus encountered even here an important wool establishment; the clothing manufacturers...

March 7, 2018
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HANDICRAFT AND TEXTILE INDUSTRY – A CASE STUDY FROM 1800s TO 1840s

Local weaving of broadcloth and ribbons, a rich tradition of woollen embroideries and woven interior textiles can be studied from a multitude of preserved documents and objects. From a textile point of view, the first half of the 19th century may overall be considered as a period of change for Malmö in southernmost Sweden, due to the gradual introduction of industrialisation. However, urbanisation was still modest as embroidering and art weaving...

February 20, 2018
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MERCHANTS AND NOBILITY – A LATE 18TH CENTURY TEXTILE STUDY

Imported luxury goods as well as various local stock from the Malmö merchants Falkman & Suell, can for instance be traced in existing accounts and receipts from the baron and cavalry captain Otto Wilhelm Mörner. Preserved silk embroideries and clothing are other proofs for the well-to-do inhabitants increasing demand for silk wares of all kind...

February 6, 2018
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FASHION REPORTS IN A WEEKLY NEWSPAPER – 1855 TO 1914

During the second half of the 19th century fashion magazines for women increased in number, whether adorned with coloured plates or illustrated in black-and-white, so that those interested could keep up with the latest news. They often also included paper patterns to help readers make the most up-to-date dresses for themselves. Even the weekly Whitby Gazette made an attempt to follow this trend...

January 21, 2018
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FEATHERS AND CLOTHING – OBSERVATIONS BY 18TH CENTURY NATURALISTS

The mentioning of feathers was quite common in 18th century journals and diaries by Carl Linnaeus’ so-called seventeen Apostles. They travelled to more than fifty countries from 1745 to 1799 and included notes of feathers due to determination of bird species, quills for pens, its usefulness for featherbeds, camels adorned with ostrich feathers, mourning ceremonies, trade purposes etc – as well as for decoration in clothing, which this study will look closer at. However, such observations...

January 1, 2018
iPROJECT: Textilia Linnaeana
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